Vancouver observed here the solar eclipse.
07.12.1801 Flinders at Point D'EntrecasteauxSoon after four we passed the noon's extreme at the distance of four miles. It is a steep rocky cape, named Point D'Entrecasteaux in the French chart ; and is one of the most remarkable projections of this coast.
At day light, the ship was found to have been carried to the eastward, and neither Point D'Entrecasteaux nor the two white rocks were in sight; but in the N. 19º E., about eight miles, was a head not far from the extreme set in the evening. It afterwards proved to be a smooth steep rock, lying one mile from the main; and is the land first made upon this coast by captain Vancouver who called it Cape Chatham.
Soon after two o'clock, we passed at the distance of five miles from a steep point which has a broad rock lying near it. This point, being unnamed and somewhat remarkable, I call Point Hillier. The coast extends from thence nearly east-by-south, without any considerable projection, except at the furthest extreme then visible; and on coming up with it, at half past five, it proved to be the Cape Howe of Vancouver. There is another Cape Howe upon the same coast, named by captain Cook, which makes it necessary to distinguish this by a descriptive adjunct, and I shall therefore call it West Cape Howe.
26.09.1791 Vancouver and Broughton enter King George's Sound As Chatham led the way into the "very snug, secure and spacious sound" whales were playing about the ships.
05.01.1802 Flinders on leaving King George's SoundOn the 5th of January, in the morning, we got under way from the Sound, having a fresh wind from the westward and equally weather. Mount Gardner is a high, conic-shaped hill, apparently of granite, very well delineated in Captain Vancouver's atlas. The south end of Bald Island, called Ile Pelée by D'Entrecasteaux, opened around the cape of Mount Gardner at N. 69ºE. It is of moderate elevation and barren as the name implies. It lies off a rocky projection of the main land, at which terminates a ridge of mountains extending three leagues along the shore from the bight behind Mount Gardner There are a number of small peaks upon the top of this ridge, which induced me to give it the name Mount Manypeaks. After clearing the passage of Bald Island, I found the shore to trend north-eastward, and to be low and sandy; but at the distance of eight leagues inland, there was a chain of rugged mountains, of which the eastern and highest peak, called Mount Rugged lies N.11½ºW. from the passage. At six, we came up with a steep rock, one mile from the main, and then hauled to the wind, off shore for the night. This lump I called Haul-off Rock. It is to the south-west of a cliffy point which bears the name Cape Riche, after a naturalist of D'Entrecasteaux's expedition who got lost for two days.
At noon, a projecting head two miles long, which, from the lumps of rock at the top, I called Cape Knob, was three miles distant. The coast is sandy on both sides of the Cape, but especially on the west side, where the hillocks at the back of the shore are little else than bare sand.
At four o'clock we had passed Vancouver's Point Hood and seeing a channel of nearly a mile in width, between it and the two outer of the Doubtful Islands, named by Vancouver in view of the connecting of the northernmost being uncertain, steered through it. At eight, tacked to the southward, and weathered the Islands. On the north-western and north sides of the Cape, there are some masses of tolerably high land which appeared to be granitic; and for the distinction in the survey, they are called West, Middle and East Mounts Barren, later renamed the Eyre Range.
09.12.1792 Labillardière with La Recherche and L'Esperance in Esperance BayThe vessels anchored here for seven days, collecting specimens and exploring the neighbourhood, sampling oysters and sighting natives briefly. Monsieur Riche, another naturalist, managed to get lost ashore, and Labillardière had to plead with his Admiral for an extended search. Water running short and no water having been discovered at the Bay, D'Entrecasteaux wanted to leave as early as possible and held the opinion that the natives had killed Riche. Labillardière argued that under similar circumstances Captain Cook had lost and recovered a man on Christmas Island in December 1777. Eventually he obtained permission to continue the search and retrieved a hungry and thirsty Riche after an absence of more than 48 hours. This experience proved to the scientist that it was possible for a man to lose himself for more than two days in that country.
09.01.1802 Flinders in Vancouver's Archipel de la Recherche The high peak on D'Entrecasteaux's Cape Le Grand appears to be the top of his imperfectly formed Ile de Remarque with a long reef of rocks, his Le Chaussée (The Causeway), four or five miles to the southward.
At half past ten we steered more towards the main land; that no opening in it might escape unseen; and at noon, hove to for the purpose of taking bearings. A chain of islands and breakers lay ahead two miles to the northward; and amongst the cluster to the east were two islands with peaks upon them, which, from their similarity, were named The Twins.
At six o'clock we had some larger flat island to windward, and in the east-south-east was one much larger and of greater extent, which proved to be the Ile du Milieu (Middle Island) of D'Entrecasteaux. Betwixt this island and his Cape Aride on the main, there were many small isles and apparently passages; and we therefore bore away in the hope of finding anchorage against the approaching night. The botanists landed in the morning upon Middle Island; for I had determined to stop a day or two, as well for their accommodation as to improve my chart of the archipelago. I went to the northern island, which is one mile long and near half a mile in breadth, and found it to be covered with tufts of wiry grass intermixed with a few shrubs. Some of the little blue pinguins, like those of Bass Strait, harboured under the bushes; and amongst the grass upon the shores were a number of the barnacle geese, of which we killed nine, mostly with sticks; and sixteen more were procured in the course of the day. After taking bearings from the uppermost of the small elevations of Goose Island, as it was now named, I ascended the high north-western hill of Middle Island, which afforded a more extensive view. The furthest visible part of the main land was a projecting cape, with a broad topped hill upont it bearing N. 58º E., six or seven leagues. This projection not having been seen by D'Entrecasteaux, was named Cape Pasley after the late Admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, under whom I had the honour of entering the naval service.
17.01.1802 Flinders in sight of Eastern Group of ArchipelagoMiddle Island and Cape Arid were still visible at noon, and the Eastern Group, which according to D'Entrecasteaux, terminated the archipelago, was coming in sight. At half past one, we passed within three miles of the point which had been the furthest extreme at noon; it is low and sandy, and a ledge of rocks extends from it to the north-east. I named it Point Malcolm, in honour of Captain Pultney Malcolm of the navy. On the north side of this point, the coast stretches north, and then eastward, forming a bight. Four or five miles behind the shore, and running parallel with it, is a bank of moderately high and level land; over which the tops of some barren-looking mountains were occasionally seen. The most remarkable of these is Mount Ragged.
18-26.01.1802 Flinders along the cliffsAt day break we made all sail to the north-eastward, along the same low and, if possible, still more sandy coast and kept going until four in the afternoon. The shore curved round here, and took a more eastern direction. Three leagues further on, it formed cliffs upon the coast; and a projecting part of them, which I called Point Culver was the furthest land in sight. This afternoon we passed a number of pale red medusa, such as I had usually seen on the East Coast at the entrances to rivers, and which, on being touched, produce a sensation like the stinging of a nettle. In the morning, the wind enabled us to pass Point Culver. At seven in the evening, we passed another projecting part of the cliffs, named Point Dover, distant from Point Culver fifty miles.
The elevation of these cliffs appeared to be about five-hundred feet, and nothing of the back country was seen above them. A surveyor finds almost no object here whose bearing can be set a second time. Each small projection presents the appearance of a steep cape, as it opens out in sailing along; but before the ship arrives abreast of it, it is lost in the general uniformity of the coast. Point Culver and Point Dover are exceptions to this uniformity. The height of this extraordinary bank, no less than one hundred and forty-five leagues long, is nearly the same throughout, being no where less, by estimation, than four hundred, nor any where more than six hundred feet. In the first twenty leagues the ragged tops of some inland mountains were visible over it; but during the remainder of its long course the bank was the limit of our view. At the termination of the bank, the coast became sandy, nd trended north-eastward about three leagues; after which it turned south-est-by-east, and formed the Point Dover.
27-28.01.1802 Flinders at the Head of the Great Australian BightAfter steering east-north-east, and east-south-east, and having seen the beach all around the Head of the Great Australian Bight, we hauled up parallel to the new direction of the coast, at the distance of six miles; and at five o'clock were abreast of Cape Adieu, the furthest part seen by the French Admiral when he quitted the examination. The coast is a sandy beach in front; but the land rises gradually from thence, and at three or four miles back is of moderate elevation, but still sandy and barren. According to the chart of Nuyts, an extensive reef lay a little beyond this part. It was not seen by D'Entrecasteaux, but we were anxiously looking out for it when, at six o'clock, breakers were seen from the mast head bearing S. 43º E. some distance open from the land. We kept on our course for them until stopped by a head swell. At noon of the next day, the breakers were five or six miles from the land, and did not appear to have any connection with it, nor with two other sets of small reefs which came in sight to the east and east-south-east, soon afterwards. The southernmost patches are two or three miles in length, and there are large rocks upon them, standing above water. It may be doubted whether the western reef were known to Nuyts, but there can be no doubt concerning the last; and I call the whole Nuyts' Reef.
28.01.1802 Flinders in Fowler's BayThe bay in which we anchored on the evening of January 28, at the extremity of the before known coast of Terra Australis, was named Fowler's Bay, after my first lieutenant Robert Fowler; and the low, cliffy point which shelters it from southern winds and, not improbably, is the furthest point (marked B in the Dutch chart, was called Point Fowler.
31.01.1802 Flinders at Point Bell At three in the afternoon, we reached in again with the coast, about four leagues beyond our situation on the preceding day. The depth at two miles off shore, was 7 fathoms on a coral bottom; the northern extreme bore N. 58º W., and a low point on the other side, named Point Bell, S. 45º E. seven miles.
At daylight, we found ourselves half a mile from the shore. The island is nearly three miles long. It is the central one of a group. I call these Isles of St.Francis; in the persuasion that the central one is that named St.Francis by Nuyts. Independently of the eight isles and a rock, surrounding Ile St.Francis, I set from the north-east point , three other islands. The first, named Lacy's Island, bore N. 28º E., seven miles; and two miles from it to the north-west, there is an islet and a separate rock above water, surrounded with breakers. The second was called Evans's Isle; the name of Franklin's Isle was given to the third.
05.02.1802 Flinders outside Streaky BayTo the south-estward of St.Francis and Franklin's Isles, is a low projection of the main land, to which the name Point Brown was given, in compliment to the naturalist; and four leagues further, in the same line, was a cliffy head, called Cape Bauer after the painter of natural history. Between these projecyions there was awide space when no land was visible, and for which we accordingly steered on the wind veering more to the northward. At half past two, however, low, sandy land was seen from the mast head. The water was much discoloured in streaks. Smokes were rising in three different places; but as the wind was unfavourable, and there was no prospect of any opening sufficiently large to admit the Investigator, I gave up the further examination of this place, and called it Streaky Bay
06.02.1802 Flinders in Smoky BayAll sail was made to fetch between Franklin's Isles and Point Brown. On the north side of Point Brown the shore formed a large open bay, into which we hauled up as much as the wind would permit. The number of smokes rising from the shores of this wide, open place, induced me to give it the name of Smoky Bay,
04.02.1802 Flinders in view of the Isles of St.PeterAt five o'clock, we passed between Evan's Island and some rocks above water, with breakers lying round them. An Island, equally high with that of St.Francis, was then seen to the north, and low land extended from it to N. 45º E., which had some appearance of being part of the main. We steered for these lands; and seeing an opening between them at sunset, I attempted it in the hope of getting anchorage for the night; but the water shoaled suddenly, and obliged me to veer on the instant. Three days later, returning to the area, I conceived the islands to be the Isles of St.Peter in Nuyt's chart; notwithstanding their relatively small distance from those of St.Francis. The bay to the northward, between these islands and the main land, I named Denial Bay, as well in allusion to St.Peter as to the deceptive hope we had formed, of penetrating by it some distance into the interior country.